Canal barges provide an obligingly picturesque backdrop to the bright blue walls, Matisse posters and strings of dried red chillies in Martin Lam’s Battersea dining room. He takes supplies seriously, using free-range eggs (scrambled with smoked salmon or bacon for brunch at weekends), fish from sustainable resources, and ’as much organically reared meat and poultry as possible’. Despite an hors d’oeuvre plate featuring Spanish charcuterie, and some Cal/Ital flourishes, it is regional British items that stand out.